Tuesday, April 2, 2013

By God


Recalled 13 February, 2013
Sperryville, Virginia






We left Bowling Green, Kentucky early, getting up in the dark and writing the penultimate chapter to this travelblogue, and I noticed an ephemeral sheen reflected in the parking lot from a sign extending 100 yards into the air, and remembered seeing it as we had arrived the previous evening: White Castle.






I simultaneously regretted and reflected on the appropriateness of naming our record after the stoner movie, Harold and Kumar’s Big Adventure. Harold and Kumar, as I recall, having barely seen it, spend their days in search of the stoner holy grail, the White Castle Hamburger Joint. And here we were, having crossed the 10,000 mile mark, about to embark on the last day of four months on the road, actually able to make a photo, still healthy, less wealthy and refutably wise.

We stuck with route 65 through Kentucky and the Bourbon Heritage Highway through Elizabethtown and Lexington, into West Virginia, hearing on the radio that there had been a straight-line wind gust in Nashville the night before that registered at 105 miles per hour.  We had heard the winds whip up and intensify in Bowling Green, and I was fearing the roof would be peeled from the motel.






From Lexington we took route 64 with plans to take it all the way to Virginia, hoping to sneak into the state without a safety inspection sticker, which had expired in December, only to change plans after a snow mix was forecast for the Seneca area. I had been planning to exit route 79 at Elkins and take route 33 towards Harrisonburg, and instead maintained the northerly route up to Clarksburg, taking route 50 east to Winchester.

We passed through Charleston around 4, and two hours later, upon beginning the squirrel trail that passes for route 50 in central West Virginia, I saw a sign that read, “Romney 88,” which could have been a campaign sign. This portended much further travel for us, already at eight hours on the road, as were maintaining an average speed of 30 miles per hour, and would still be in West Virginia four hours later.

Four more hours of this?

We trudged across the tundra, we trundled imaginary boulders, I don’t think we sang to stay awake, but I called my friend Andy, who had offered us a bed near Luray Virginia, which was a godsend, just by virtue of being 30 minutes closer than the smokehouse. Of course the smokehouse would be unheated and trashed, as this is sort of its nature, and there was a new wrinkle, presented while in California, that of no hot water.

Our friend (known as Kaya’s Uncle) was kind and indulgent, as we were definitely spent, so kind, in fact, that he made a chicken sandwich for Kaya, and meat and potatoes for me. We talked a little, as it had probably been eleven when we arrived, and nodded out with satisfaction.

In the morning we gathered before our host was up, and headed over the mountain into a new set of changes, and the rising sun.


Well now what is going to happen now is anybody's guess
If I can't spend my time with love I guess I need a rest
Time is getting late now and the sun is getting low
My body's getting tired of carryin' another's load
And sunshine's waiting for me a little further down the road

-Jorma Kaukonen




Monday, April 1, 2013

Winters Summers Home


30 January, 2013
Bowling Green, Kentucky


Well Shakespeare he's in the alley
With his pointed shoes and his bells
Speaking to some French girl
Who says she knows me well
And I would send a message
To find out if she's talked
But the post office has been stolen
And the mailbox is locked
Oh, Mama, can this really be the end
To be stuck inside of Mobile 
With the Memphis blues again.
-Bob Dylan


We left Russellville twice, leaving early the first time, and forgetting Kaya’s bed. We were 20 minutes towards little Rock when I asked her if she had slept well on her bed, when it hit me. We had to continue another ten minutes before finding an offramp, and turning around in Morrilton.

As we came into Little Rock, passing through Maumelle, I was glad to be moving on. The bizarre shifts in State policy were weighing heavily in light of discovering a dry county broadcasting volumes of God Radio: we had come from Virginia, where beer and cigarettes are promoted, and marijuana is illegal, to Northern California, where beer and marijuana are legal, and cigarette smoking is illegal…to this dry county where beer and marijuana are illegal and cigarettes are promoted, and everybody seems weirded-out, after an evangelical fashion. All we needed was a nearby town with no smoking laws, and we could be prosecuted for any of the three.






We passed Toad Suck Park in Little Rock, angling highway 40 towards Memphis. The wind, which had become persistent in Texas, though not unpleasant in 73 degrees, had blown us about through Oklahoma and into Arkansas. On the flooded plains East of Little Rock they prevailed, often disturbing the trajectories of tractor-trailers.






I snapped a couple of photos as we crossed the bridge, and recollected how the quality of the travelogue was changing as we headed east. The dimension of camping, of embracing the landscape over thoughts warming with coffee, had fled with the oncoming winter. We had been blessed with Summer’s extension, not only through Texas and Oklahoma, but clear through Arkansas, Tennessee and Kentucky. The carefully assembled photographs were dissembling into shots out the window…






Last night’s weather got intense, with the winds howling and things crashing as they were carried, airborne, into nearby buildings.  There was an interlude or two where it took on a low, rumbling resonance, and I feared we had met our tornado. Though we had scrambled our way north of the daily tornado warning zone, nothing was really immune.

Kaya’s spirits have remained high, though she shows more of this when we stop for a break. As she began shedding a week before we left California, she seemed to show some prescience, maybe an awareness that we were headed into the desert. She continues to shed in high style, but today the temperatures will drop 20 degrees, and as we regain our home in Virginia, it will again be winter.

Today, God Willing, The Creek Don’t Rise, we will cross over the ten thousand mile mark and return home.